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Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. I also have a new FC coming for this build, which I will share info on in the next post :) My plan is to build a new 6S quad next week with this ESC. But I guess thatвЂ™s reassuring to know that I wonвЂ™t burn my ESC simply because of a excessively long punch out :) This is going to be especially useful if you prefer mounting your FC stack with long steel bolts, these rubber grommets also act as electrical insulation.ДЇinally, apart from the plastic header connector, the connections are also broken out to these solder pads on the edge of the ESC, if you prefer soldering wires to the FC directly.Д¦5A is seriously an overkill for nearly everything I fly with, either 4S or 6S. It comes with rubber grommets (M3), not for soft-mounting, but for dampening shocks from crashes to avoid damaging the components onboard. It also prevents electrical shorts in case of any wet leaves gets inside your FC stack. The exposed back side, where the control circuits are, is completely protected by a layer of water-proof coating.

So itвЂ™s best to keep the sticker on as a form of insulation. ItвЂ™s soldered to the ground, shorting the heatshink and bus bar and you will get a fire. The only downside is it makes troubleshooting the ESC harder because you canвЂ™t access the MOSFETвЂ™s. This heatsink is designed to cool down the MOSFETвЂ™s, protects them from physical damage as well as shielding electro-magnetic interference from reaching the flight controller. I didnвЂ™t notice it until I removed the sticker вЂ“ a big piece of metal covering all the MOSFET. On the same side, surrounding the bus bar, is the heatsink. IвЂ™d probably cover it a small piece of electrical tape just in case. Make sure no wires or anything conductive can touch it when the ESC is powered on. However, be careful with it, because ItвЂ™s connected to the power positive. It is used to reduce resistance in the ESC and improve efficiency. This is the bus bar, which is becoming a common feature in high power ESCвЂ™s nowadays. You can find a huge copper bar right in the centre of the ESC. In order to deliver the current itвЂ™s designed to handle, the copper is so thick it takes up almost all the space in one PCB, I think thatвЂ™s why they have to build the control circuit on a different PCB. This ESC has a dual PCB design вЂ“ one PCB contains the control circuit (MCU and gate drivers) while the other contains the power circuit (MOSFET). Not that you are going to notice a major difference in performance, but it might benefit from future firmware development. The HGLRC Forward 65A 4in1 ESC uses the STM32 L431 processor вЂ“ a faster processor than the F0 typically used on BLHeli_32 ESC. I like the fact that the power solder pads are not extruded вЂ“ so many other 4in1 ESCвЂ™s have extruded power pads, they can make it hard to fit inside a compact frame sometimes.Д¬loser Look at the HGLRC Forward 65A 4in1 ESC With this particular ESC design, you are meant to mount it with the power lead coming out of the rear. Solder pads are wide with adequate separation, should be very easy to solder.

Weight: 23.3g 24.1g (a tiny bit heavier than advertised)Д«uild quality looks fine for the most part.

ESC Protocol: Oneshot, Multishot, DShot1200.

15cm вЂ“ 20cm long, going through your frame, 4in1 ESC as well as the FC) Forward 65A ESC Specs I recommend long steel bolts for your stack. The nylon standoffs are basically useless because the thread is too short for the rubber grommets.

35V might work just fine, 50V is safer because of voltage spikes. IвЂ™d love to see it comes with a better capacitor with 50V rating for 6S build.

Rubber grommets, nylon standoffs and nuts (M3).

It comes with the following accessories, pretty standard stuff:

Cascadea 4in1 esc 6amp